When it comes to Indian food, one inadvertently conjures up images of local mamak food–cheap, greasy and heavily spiced. However, tracing authentic Indian food back to its culinary roots, this bears no resemblance to the fare that we are familiar with. Once the epicenter of world spice trade, at a time when Maharajahs ruled, the Indian cuisine was as rich as the culture that defines the land itself. At the heart of the spice trade, the region of Kerala prospered and it was at the palaces that sumptuous ethnic food was served.
Fast forward a few centuries, one restaurant–Kerala Kottaram–attempts to recollect the grandeur of the forgotten days and revive the authentic dishes of Kerala right here in KL.
Kottaram, which means “palace” in Malayalam, Kerala’s native language, is touted to be the first Indian fine dining restaurant in Malaysia. True to its name, its decor, food and service are crafted to deliver a culinary experience fit for a king.
All interior pieces are sourced from Kerala and hand-picked by the owner, including custom-made Kathakali masks of ancient Indian art performances.
The restaurant is the brainchild of owner Jacqueline Francis, a multi-talented entrepreneur who also runs a successful company that provides environmental, quality and safety certification services. Thus, it comes as no surprise that Kerala Kottaram’s food and cleanliness meet ISO standards and all suppliers are audited for Halal-Jakim status.
Upon entering the restaurant, you would indeed be transported to a majestic palace setting, complete with five sections to choose from–the Main Gate, Dining Hall, Stage, Royal Bar and Southern Garden–all inspired by the Padmanbhapuram Palace in Kerala. Not only are you spoilt for choice in dining ambience, the menu also has a whopping 250 items for the fickle royalty in you. In fact, if you decide that none of the Authentic, Fusion, Ayurvedic or Casual Dining dishes fits your tastebuds, the 10 chefs in the kitchen would be happy to oblige you with their special Made-to-Order dishes.
We had Kottaram Sushi (RM15) for starters, a Keralite take on the Japanese dish under its Fusion Menu. While some came encased with the usual seaweed wrapping, others were rolled in dosa (also known as tosai). Instead of short-grain rice, this sushi was assembled using a type of brown rice common to Kerala. It was definitely a hit, as the delicately spiced rice and dosa combination makes for an unusual appetiser.
Next, we had Kappa Meen (RM12), an authentic Kerala dish. This deliciously spicy fish curry reminiscent of assam fish gravy, served with steamed tapioca, arrived in quaint claypots. It is worth noting that only the freshest spices are flown in from Kerala and used by this restaurant, lending to a wonderful burst of flavours on the tongue. If you are partial to poultry, try the Chicken Roast with Spicy Sauce and Vegetables (RM24) and a side order of fragrant basmati rice. A fusion version of the local chicken rice, it would definitely appeal to the diet-conscious people as the Kerala-spiced chicken is skinned and double cooked which resulted in very little oil.